Diamonds through the ages

Introduction

The history of diamonds stems over billions of years and the tale is one of mystical power, beauty, wealth and spirit. The word diamond is derived from the Greek word ‘adamas’ meaning unconquerable or indestructible.

The ancient Greeks believed that diamonds were tears from the Gods. Diamonds were thought to be mystical and powerful stones that affected the heavens and the hearts. For the last 4,000 years, diamonds have been relieved to hold a special power for Kings, Queens and their subjects. Today, diamonds continue to hold our fascination as modern technology brings a diamond to life in fire, brilliance and scintillation

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Diamonds were formed around 3.3 billion years ago under intense heat and pressure deep within the Earth’s crust, more than 150km below the surface in a area known as the mantle which consists of volcanic magma. Diamonds are the hardest natural substance known to man. Made from pure carbon, a diamond can produce more brilliance than any other gemstone on earth. As testament to a diamond’s rarity, on average 250 tonnes of ore must be mined in order to produce a single carat gem quality polished diamond. Thus, only a small amount of diamond rough makes it to the surface, and fewer still are of gem quality suitable for diamond jewellery. South Africa is among the top diamond producing countries in the world. Learn more

First Diamond Sighting in India The first diamond discovery is believed to have occurred in India around 2500 BC as alluvial deposits along the rivers of Penner, Krishna and Godavari. Initially, these rough diamonds were not valued for their brilliance as they are today, instead these were known to be extremely hard, early tales describing it as indestructible, and were used in tools of that era. The Indian alluvial deposits were virtually the only source of diamonds for centuries yielding some world famous stones including the The Great Mogul and the Koh-i-Noor.

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Diamonds first used as decoration in 322 BC, diamonds appear in Europe as accent decoration to royalty in the form of jewellery reserved only for Kings because they stood for strength, courage and invincibility. Over time, their mystique and rarity led to diamonds being associated with divine protection and power. As trade routes expanded, diamonds began to reach the aristocracy beyond royalty, gradually becoming symbols of wealth and prestige throughout Europe.

Diamond cutting established as industry The earliest diamond cutting industry is believed to have started in Venice, Rome a widely recognised trade capital. The earliest form of diamond cutting is the point cut, with eight symmetrical facets in the shape of an octahedron. This cut was later improved to a Table Cut, achieved by cutting off part of the top half at the Point Cut to create a table.

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In 1477, the first diamond was given as an engagement ring when Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy. The ring featured a diamond set in the shape of an “M,” symbolizing his commitment and love. It was worn on the third finger of the right hand, believed to contain the “vena amoris”—a vein thought to run directly to the heart. This gesture set a powerful precedent among European aristocracy, sparking a tradition that would evolve over centuries. The use of diamonds in engagement rings became a lasting symbol of enduring love and fidelity.

In 1550, the first and most important diamond centre of that period was established in Antwerp, Belgium. The city quickly rose to prominence as the hub of the international diamond trade due to its strategic location and advanced gem-cutting techniques. Antwerp attracted skilled artisans and traders from across Europe, becoming a vital link between rough diamond suppliers and wealthy European buyers. Its diamond district laid the foundation for modern diamond commerce, with some of its historic trade practices still influencing the industry today.

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In 1660, diamonds were increasingly worn as a symbol of wealth and social status. From 1600 to 1750, they represented ultimate prosperity across Europe, adorning both men and women of the aristocracy and upper classes. Elaborate diamond jewelry became essential in royal courts and high society, often passed down as family heirlooms. At the time, India was the world’s only known source of diamonds, making them extremely rare and valuable. This exclusivity changed in the early 1700s when diamonds were discovered in Brazil, boosting global supply and further cementing their status as prized luxury items.

Diamonds discovered in South Africa The story of diamonds in South Africa begins between December 1866 and February 1867 when 15-year-old Erasmus Jacobs found a transparent rock on his father’s farm, on the south bank of the Orange River. It was this discovery that led to the boom of diamond industry and attracted tradesmen from a far. The further discovery of diamonds near Hopetown, Kimberly gave birth to the modern diamond industry and radically affected not only the world’s supply of diamonds, but also the conception of them. The 1870s and 1880s brought a mad rush for diamonds in the Northern Cape, encompassing the mines that produced 95% of the worlds’ diamonds. As annual world diamond production increased more than 10 fold during the 10 years, a once extremely rare gem became more accessible to men. Today South Africa remains a leading diamond producer.

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In 1905, the Cullinan Diamond was discovered in South Africa, weighing an astonishing 3,106 carats, making it the largest rough diamond ever found. It was unearthed at the Premier Mine near Pretoria and named after the mine’s chairman, Sir Thomas Cullinan. The diamond was later presented to King Edward VII as a gift and was cut into several stones, the largest of which—Cullinan I, or the Great Star of Africa—is set in the British Sovereign’s Sceptre. The Cullinan’s discovery captivated the world and remains a defining moment in diamond history, symbolizing both natural wonder and royal prestige.

In 1919, Marcel Tolkowsky, a Belgian mathematician and gemologist, revolutionized the diamond industry by developing the Ideal Cut for round brilliant diamonds. His groundbreaking calculations balanced the angles and proportions of a diamond to maximize its brilliance, fire, and sparkle—setting a new standard for diamond cutting. Tolkowsky’s work led to the creation of the Modern Brilliant Cut, which remains the most popular and widely used diamond cut to this day. His precise approach elevated diamonds from beautiful stones to masterfully engineered works of art, transforming the way they were appreciated and valued worldwide.

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In 1939, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) introduced the 4Cs—cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight—as a standardized system for grading diamonds. This revolutionary framework brought clarity and consistency to diamond evaluation, allowing both consumers and jewelers to accurately assess and compare stones. Before the 4Cs, there was no universal method for determining diamond quality, leading to confusion and inconsistency in the market. The introduction of the 4Cs not only empowered buyers but also established GIA as the world’s leading authority in gemological education and diamond certification. Today, the 4Cs remain the global benchmark for diamond grading.

In 1988, De Beers unveiled the Centenary Diamond, one of the largest and most remarkable modern fancy cut diamonds ever discovered. Originally weighing 599 carats in its rough form, it was meticulously cut over nearly three years into a flawless, modified heart-shaped brilliant weighing 273.85 carats. The Centenary Diamond is renowned not only for its impressive size but also for its exceptional color grade—classified as D, the highest grade for colorless diamonds. Its unveiling marked a milestone in diamond cutting craftsmanship and remains a testament to precision, beauty, and rarity in the world of gemstones.

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