Marcel Tolkowsky, well-known mathematician and gemologist, scientifically established the best formula to cut and polish a round brilliant diamond. His work on the ideal diamond cut set the global standard for diamond proportions and continues to influence modern gemology today.
Tolkowsky’s Early Life
Marcel Tolkowsky was born into a Belgian family famed for their expertise in diamond cutting, with several relatives achieving prominence in the industry. His nephew, Gabi Tolkowsky, invented the “flower cut” and became a consultant for De Beers, while his cousin, Lazare Kaplan, established a successful diamond business in New York.
But it was Marcel who would change the course of diamond history forever.
The Creator Behind the Ideal Cut
In 1919, while studying engineering at the University of London, Marcel Tolkowsky published his groundbreaking Ph.D thesis, “Diamond Design.” Using his mathematical expertise, he set out to discover the perfect proportions for cutting a round brilliant diamond.
In the end, Marcel’s calculations showed that by carefully balancing the angles and proportions of a diamond’s facets, it was possible to maximize its brilliance and fire.
He calculated that a round brilliant diamond should have 58 facets, with precise measurements for the crown, pavilion, and table. This became known as the “Ideal Cut,” a standard that would revolutionize diamond cutting. For the first time, cutters had a scientific formula to follow, ensuring that each diamond could reach its optimal light performance potential.
The 58 Facet Design
Tolkowsky’s 58-facet design, comprising of 33 facets on the crown (the top part) and 25 on the pavilion (the bottom part), specified key proportions, including a crown angle of 34.5°, a pavilion angle of 40.75°, a table size of 53% of the diamond’s diameter, and a total depth of 59.3%.
The Ideal Cut quickly became the benchmark for brilliant cut diamonds. Marcel’s findings, which were also called the “American Ideal Cut” or “the Tolkowsky Brilliant” in the gemology industry, ensure that light entering the diamond is reflected internally and dispersed through the top, enhancing its sparkle.
The Brilliant 10 Diamond
Using the mathematical measurement formulated by Marcel, a well-known South African jeweler, Shimansky created the beautiful Eight Hearts (Hearts and Arrows) Diamond. CEO and founder, Yair Shimansky, however, took the round brilliant cut diamond or Ideal Cut a step further and designed the Brilliant 10 diamond – an extraordinary diamond cut that perfectly balanced the fire, brilliance and scintillation of the diamond.
The extraordinary diamond cut has 71 facets precisely aligned with the most captivating display of brilliance. The most brilliant cut reveals a 10 hearts pattern from below and a 10 arrows pattern from the top. Like the Ideal Cut or round brilliant cut diamond, the exclusive Shimansky Brilliant 10 is a cut above the rest.
In 1940, Marcel migrated to the United States where he worked in the diamond industry up until 1975 when he decided to retire. Before his retirement, Marcel worked actively in the diamond industry showing his passion and ideas for one of nature’s most precious gifts. In 1991, Marcel passed away due to a heart failure. Up until today, diamond cutters around the world use Marcel’s mathematical formula as guideline or reference when cutting a diamond.
Tolkowsky’s Legacy
In 1940, Marcel migrated to the United States where he worked in the diamond industry up until 1975 when he decided to retire. Before his retirement, Marcel worked actively in the diamond industry showing his passion and ideas for one of nature’s most precious gifts.
In 1991, Marcel passed away due to a heart failure. Passionate about the diamond cutting process, Marcel Tolkowsky lived to the age of 92 leaving behind a remarkable legacy in the diamond industry. Now, more than a century after Tolkowsky’s discovery, diamond cutters around the world use Marcel’s mathematical formula as guideline or reference when cutting a diamond.
Learn More About the History of Diamond Cutting
Visit the Cape Town Diamond Museum to learn more about the fascinating world of diamonds and precious gemstones. Here, visitors can view exact replicas of the world’s most famous diamonds, learn about diamond cutting and the history of diamonds, and even watch real diamonds being polished up-close. Book your guided tour today.
